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- ESSAY, Page 78Clinton and the Stones of Venice
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- By Walter Shapiro
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- A postelection toudist in Venice slides ineluctably toward
- eternal thoughts:
-
- -- How do the world's pigeons divvy up their assignments?
- Are the best and the brightest in the aviary awarded a nesting
- place in Piazza San Marco, while the dullards are consigned to
- bleak window ledges in Detroit?
-
- -- Contemplating the small courtyard that still contains
- fragments of the boyhood home of Marco Polo, one wonders: Did
- memories of almost this same scene sustain the 13th century
- adventurer in his wanderings? Or was happiness for him always
- the sight of Venice in the rear-view mirror?
-
- -- Why is the model for America in decline always cold,
- dreary and class-riven Britain, and not warm and enveloping
- Italy, where thoughts of the trade deficit fade in anticipation
- of the next glorious meal?
-
- Funny how the loss of national self-confidence changes
- one's perception of other American tourists. Instead of wincing
- at the sight of fellow countrymen (that vintage lament "Why do
- the wrong Americans go abroad?"), now takes a perverse pride in
- spotting an overdressed couple from Houston berating a desk
- clerk or a homesick American family dashing into a Venetian
- Wendy's. The U.S. cannot be that broke, comes the comforting
- thought, since some of us still have enough credit left on our
- charge cards to venture abroad. As the outdoor piano in front
- of Florian cafe plays Feelings, there is an irresistible urge
- to gauge world prosperity by categorizing vacationers by
- nationality: a large Japanese tour group; seven Germans all
- with guidebooks; three French couples (undoubtedly sneering at
- the food); and -- yea, team! -- five certifiable Americans.
-
- An American in Venice cannot help feeling marginal, neither
- sharing in the borderless bounty of the E.C. nor joining the
- Japanese in their shopping-bag odyssey of the great boutiques
- of Europe. But then an Italian newsstand beckons -- and suddenly
- it's the American Century all over again. Who is that carefully
- coiffed blond woman staring intently from the cover of a glossy
- Italian magazine? A Roman film star? Princess Di? No, it's
- Hillary Clinton. Newspaper headlines in four languages refer
- familiarly to a global personality instantly recognizable as
- just plain "Bill."
-
- These days, many Americans would be hard pressed to name
- any world leader aside from, perhaps, Boris Yeltsin. Imagine the
- puzzlement if U.S. headline writers began invoking first names
- like Helmut (Kohl) or Kiichi (Miyazawa). But all through Europe,
- Bill and Hillary have suddenly become as familiar as other
- one-word American icons like Madonna, Magic and McDonald's. Is
- this Clinton mania merely the latest manifestation of the one
- eternally booming U.S. industry -- the creation of international
- celebrities -- or does it speak to something larger about the
- worldwide perception of both America and its new
- President-elect?
-
- Part of it is simply a natural fascination with the new. A
- year ago, about the only people in Europe who had ever heard of
- Bill Clinton were former Oxford classmates. In contrast to the
- parliamentary democracies and their endless reshuffling of
- shopworn faces, America stands unique in its willingness to
- entrust power to outsiders. Hillary Clinton adds an unexpected
- twist -- a woman who has earned her place among the shapers of
- policy through merit as well as marriage. For Europeans, the
- choice seems clear: Would you rather read about the Clintons or
- the squabble over agricultural subsidies in the GATT
- negotiations?
-
- Habit also explains this fixation on the newly elected
- President. For nearly half a century, the character and the
- resolve of the U.S. President mattered to Europeans in the most
- visceral sense -- survival. The nuclear football that Clinton
- will inherit on Jan. 20 now seems almost a cold war
- anachronism, but the tendency to look anxiously toward
- Washington remains an inborn trait. The human mind abhors a
- power vacuum; even in the dying years of the Roman Empire, free
- men could probably rattle off the names and pedigrees of
- Emperors like Petronius Maximus, Majorian and Severus.
-
- How tempting it is for a star-spangled American patriot to
- view Europe's growing Bill-and-Hillary fascination as proof that
- the world still needs a strong and resolute U.S. Europe's woeful
- incapacity to stop the near genocidal carnage in Bosnia
- buttresses this argument, as do the American troops whose
- orders read "Somalia." Yet imagine the reaction if the new
- Democratic President were someone older and grayer, a Walter
- Mondale, say, or a Lloyd Bentsen. An aura of anticipation?
- Unlikely. Rather, the likely response would be a halfhearted
- shrug at business as usual in the global amphitheater.
-
- Only in America has power been passed to a new generation
- that defines the world in terms of post-cold-war economic
- realities. The John Kennedy parallel is inescapable -- how
- vividly his sporting vitality contrasted with the solemn
- visages of Harold Macmillan, Charles De Gaulle and Konrad
- Adenauer. Once again it seems apt to recall William Wordsworth's
- lines in thrall of the French Revolution: "Bliss was it in that
- dawn to be alive, / But to be young was very Heaven!"
-
- If there is a message amid the decaying grandeur of Venice,
- it is the transience of power and glory. The romance surrounding
- the accession of Bill Clinton is destined to be ephemeral --
- politics and poetry, by their very nature, cannot coexist for
- long. But for a moment, an American tourist amid the stones of
- Venice can bask in the awareness that his troubled nation has
- embraced the future and that the Old World is witnessing this
- leap of political faith with covetous eyes.
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